Actually, I spent five nights in Bangkok, but the lyrics from that well-known song from the musical Chess are actually very applicable to my experiences in Bangkok.
The flight to Bangkok takes about 5 1/2 hours from Seoul. I left at 6:30 PM and arrived around 10 PM (there is a two-hour time difference). Getting through customs at the airport was a breeze. As I walked toward the line, they opened up a new line and I was the first one through it. They barely glanced at my passport. The problem of getting through customs quickly is that you have to wait longer for your bag. Bags kept coming out, but there was no sight of mine. Finally on the display it said "Last Bags" and there was still no sight of mine. Suddenly the conveyor belt started again, and there was my bag. I was one of thirty people still left standing there. You can't win.
The best way from the airport to the hotel is taxi. I had studied up on how to get a taxi, and I'm glad I did. It said do not use the taxi service within the airport, but go down one level and use the public taxi service. You come to a stand and tell the attendant which hotel you're going to and he writes out the instructions to the driver. That all went fine, but then I stood there as taxis waited beside me. After about 10 minutes I finally asked the attendant what I was waiting for? Within seconds of asking a driver then appeared and took my bags.
The drive from the airport to the hotel is about 30 minutes. Taxis are incredibly cheap in Thailand. For a thirty-minute ride it cost me $9 dollars! This doesn't include the airport tax or tolls that you have to pay along the way, but those amounted to $3 dollars. Much of the drive was on the highway and at night, so I couldn't get a good look at Bangkok. As you approach the downtown area, though, the buildings get taller and brighter. The one thing you can't help but notice is the heat. At 10 PM it was 85 degrees and humid. After coming from cool Seoul, I couldn't believe the difference.
When I arrived to the hotel, I checked in without any problem. My room was located on the 57th floor and you needed to use your key card in the elevator, which presented me with problems later in the week. My room was gorgeous. It was by far the nicest and largest hotel room I've ever stayed in. There was a kitchen/dining area, a full size living room, a hallway that led to a sink and mirror, a huge bathroom with a whirlpool tub and stand-in marble shower, and a giant bedroom. Both the living room and bedroom had separate balconies. The above picture was taken from my balcony. At this point it was midnight so I didn't do more than just fall into bed.
The next morning I really had no idea what time the conference began. I checked the website and saw that most events seemed to start at 8:30, so I figured I could sleep to 7 AM. There was both a complimentary continental or full serve breakfast. I figured I'd try the continental because there's usually so much food at conferences. The continental breakfast was served on the 52nd floor and that restaurant had a sky bridge and waterfalls. It was beautiful. I am also so thoroughly spoiled that I will never look at a continental breakfast again without thinking of the Hotel Lebua. This was no ordinary continental breakfast. There was fresh marinated salmon, various types of sushi rolls, four or five types of cheese, ham, salami, turkey. Also, fresh fruit cut into beautiful shapes, home-made yogurt, and the best pastries I've had outside of France. In addition, they served delicious rich coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice. I had forgotten what good coffee tasted like. Even though the Koreans are obsessed by coffee shops, the coffee they serve is frequently terrible and weak. Thai coffee was like heaven on earth.
After breakfast I headed over to the Shangri-La Hotel where the conference was located. I stepped outside into a wall of heat and humidity. I could not believe how hot it was. I wasn't even sure where the Shangri-La was located, so as I was asking for directions, a woman behind me said she was going to the hotel and that a van was on its way. This woman, as it turned out, would be in the same training as me the entire day. She was a pastor who opened her own school in Shanghai. More about her later.
Turns out the hotel was only a five-minute walk and that the van was really stupid, but I didn't know any better. The Shangri-La is an older hotel located on the banks of the river. It has a beautiful lobby (unlike my hotel where the lobby is quite ugly and small). I quickly registered and found my conference room. I was actually attending the conference two days earlier than my colleagues because I was being trained on the accreditation process that our school uses to remain an accredited high school. I got to spend two-days in a really boring training session, but it was a necessary evil. At my table, though, I sat with the woman pastor, and met another guy from Vietnam. He was an elementary school principal, and I could tell right away that he was "family." His buffed, manicured nails gave it away for me. Our table actually bonded quite well and that made a long day feel shorter. As we got to know each other, I mentioned that I was going to dine at the restaurant on the top of the hotel (the bar was featured in The Hangover 2). It's on the 64th floor and is located outside with these amazing views. It turns out the female pastor was also dining there alone and at the same time, so we thought it was stupid to sit by ourselves so we decided to join each other for dinner. I have to admit I was a bit apprehensive because I didn't know how open-minded she would be and I certainly couldn't sit through an entire dinner and not talk about my life.
When the day ended, I quickly changed and went in search of this tailor I was told about in order to have a suit made. From the hotel I took a cab because again I didn't know any better. The traffic in Bangkok is unbelievable. Seoul doesn't even come close in comparison. The cab was literally surrounded by cars and stuck at traffic lights for 10 to 15 minutes. In addition, motor bikes raced all around us. They weaved between the cars, just missing fenders and doors. It was like being surrounding by a swarm of bees. Fortunately, taxis don't charge while standing still, since it took almost one hour to go about 4 miles.
The tailor was on a back street in a very fancy part of town. I saw a lot of ex-pats as I was walking down the street. It was started by a couple of Brits and they've done a nice job. Having never had a suit made, I didn't quite know the process. All over Bangkok you see signs in windows advertising two suits, three shirts, and three ties for $199 dollars. I knew this couldn't be true, but it's hard to rid yourself of that number. The cute British man came over with different fabrics, starting with the cheapest and working his way up to the Saville Row fabrics that cost a fortune. The difference in fabrics was amazing. I had gone in with the decision to do a pin stripe, and that reduced my number of options down to several. I didn't choose the top fabric, but a nice wool/silk blend. The cost of the suit would be $530 dollars. I expected to pay this much, but those thoughts of $199 kept coming back. Next you get measured everywhere (those in-seam measurements are always quite intimate). After measuring, there are a lot of decisions to make. What type of flap in the back, how do you want the pockets, how wide of a label, do you want a button hole, how many buttons on the sleeve, what type of stitching, what lining, etc. It gets overwhelming, but they are patient and make good recommendations. I was scheduled to come back the next day for second fitting. There are three fittings altogether. I couldn't believe they'd have the suit ready in 24-hours, but that's the beauty of sweat shops :-) That was a joke. At least I hoped they didn't have a sweatshop.
When I told the nice British man that I had taken a cab there, he said to take the Sky Train back. This is Bangkok's elevated train system. I was a bit apprehensive, but he gave me very clear directions. The station was located at the end of the block (a rather long block - even longer in the now 95 degree heat). You walk up a lot of stairs and then have to wait in line to purchase your ticket. I had no idea how much the ticket was, nor did I ever figure out how you find out other than going to the woman behind the glass. I told her the station, she said the cost, then she gave me change to go back to the other line to buy my tickets. Really? She couldn't just give me a ticket. This system seem highly inefficient to me. A ride on the Sky Train for me cost $1.30. If you know any subway system, you can manage OK in a new system, but still I struggled in knowing which direction to head. I did well for my first time. I took the train three stops to a major hub, walked down a set of steps and managed to transfer to the correct line in the correct direction. The only problem was I had no idea where the station was near my hotel. I didn't know which exit to use or where my hotel was located. Fortunately the hotel is rather tall, and being on an elevated train I could see it in the general direction. The walk back, though, took me through narrow streets lined with stalls selling all sorts of weird food concoctions. Some smelled quite delicious. By the time I found the main entrance I was drenched and running late for dinner.
A quick shower later I head to the 64th floor. You leave the elevator bank and head out to a wide veranda. There you are greeted with grand vista of Bangkok. You come to a set of steps that lead down. From the top it looks as if you're going to walk right off the side of the building. I stopped dead and backed up. I didn't think I'd be able to do it. The attendant at the top must be used to this reaction because he told me to take hold of the rail and to look down at the steps. He said it's better once you're down below. I had to believe him. Unfortunately you cannot take pictures from this vantage point. I'm not sure why.
I took his advice and made my way down the steps. My "date" was waiting for me, despite my being 25 minutes late. With her being a pastor, she didn't drink, but that didn't stop me from ordering some wine. I needed it! As it turned out, I had a delightful evening with her. She was an amazing woman. She met her husband at 16 and was married at 18. She and her husband moved to Shanghai and she wasn't satisfied with the level of schooling her children were getting so she first home schooled, then started her own school! Within four years the school now has 250 students and she came to Bangkok to seek accreditation. She doesn't know a thing about education, but she is savvy and determined. I was able to talk about my life openly and she was a wonderful listener. We even talked about religion a bit. We managed to have a great conversation and it never got too serious or heavy. Meanwhile, I ordered some foie gras, sea bass, and two more glasses of wine. Since I was the one predominantly eating and drinking, I bought her dinner. I probably wouldn't have been so cavalier if I knew the price, but after three drinks at the most amazingly beautiful location with a great dinner guest I just signed my name and room number. What's $250 dollars anyway?
And that my friends is only the first day!