My friend David Coleman from Maine has been keeping a running clock of how long it has been since we boarded the plane at Portland for Seoul (hence the title of this blog). I have been here for 85 days so far. At times it seems like an incredibly short period, and other times it seems as if time is dragging a bit. Part of the reason for the drag is all my pending trips coming up. I'm really excited about going to Bangkok this week for a conference, but I'm even more excited for Australia over Christmas. And after that a trip to Japan to see the cherry blossoms and spend a week at Japanese hot springs (if this trip comes together -- still very preliminary).
As I think about those first few days it seems almost dreamlike. Everything was so new and different. It was also scary and lonely. Now, three months later, I am growing very fond of Seoul. A lot of that fondness has to do with the weather. We have had a splendid fall. The temps have been warmish for a typical Seoul fall, around 75, but the skies have been clear blue, and a refreshing crisp chill has entered the air. The leaves are just now beginning to change. I've also settled into a routine. I know where to go for good Chinese, Italian, and French food. Entering a restaurant is no longer scary because I know that I'll be able to communicate what I want to order. Going to the supermarket is so much easier, as is shopping in general. I must say that my Survival Korean class has proven very useful. At first it seemed impossible. I couldn't remember anything that I was learning. I just found memorizing Korean words impossible. But as I am placed in real life situations, such as taxis, the words come back to me. Last night I came back from Itaewon by taxi and knew where I was because I had driven the same route. I was able, in Korean, to tell the taxi driver where to go. In restaurants, I can order a bottle of beer, ask for water, order my meal, and ask for the check. That's a huge change from when I first arrived. And even when the language barrier is so huge, both parties can usually figure out what the other wants. It just takes a little patience.
The subway no longer seems like an endless maze. I can now navigate it with only a quick glance at my cellphone app. I transfer at stations without even thinking about it. Driving has proven much easier as well. Today I went into Itaewon for a massage and to have some lunch. It takes about 30-minutes to drive (without traffic) and on Sundays it's a breeze. Sunday has quickly become my favorite day of the week because I'm able to tool around in the car and not worry about congestion. Since I'm not so distracted by the roads, I can now look for parking lots and garages, so my worries of parking no longer prevent me from venturing into the city.
Speaking of Itaewon, I went there last night (Saturday) to experience the Halloween spectacle. Halloween isn't really celebrated in Korea, meaning kids don't trick or treat, but the young people have certainly latched onto the whole costume thing. Itaewon, in case you didn't know, is the area of Seoul located near Yongsan Military Base. Consequently, it caters to foreigners. It's also close to Homo Hill and Hooker Hill and so as a result it has a rather seedy reputation. Old citizens of Seoul still sniff in disgust when you say you're going to Itaewon. It's only recently (2003) that a subway even went to Itaewon, so since the accessibility has increased, it's grown in leaps and bounds. At first I didn't like it. It's not true Seoul, more of Seoul-Lite. The restaurants are not Korean, and the ones that are Korean are expensive. Since Itaewon is so popular, restaurants can jack up the prices. There is one street that is lined with high class bars and restaurants and on the weekends these places are packed. Last night I knew it was going to be crowded, but it even surprised this native New Yorker. If you've been to The Village in NYC during Halloween, you get the sense of what it was like. The only difference (and frustration) was that the Koreans walked around with their giant Samsung phones taking pictures of everyone in a costume, even ones that really didn't warrant a picture (like the lame ass cowboy). Hence, they frequently stopped and this made getting around them almost impossible. One highlight was a young boy dancing with a chicken. Yes, a live chicken. The chicken looked so much like the stereotypical image of what a chicken is supposed to look like that I thought the chicken was in a costume as well. Obviously this spectacle warranted tons of Samsung pictures. I was even tempted to take out my much smaller iPhone and take a shot. I stopped by my favorite bar Proust but there wasn't a space anywhere to sit. It was only 10 o'clock and an hour too early to head to Homo Hill. Those guys don't show their faces until promptly at 11. So I just plopped myself on a set of steps and watched the action. It was quite amazing.
Anyway, back on topic. Three months later my apartment is finally coming together. I never realized how much I missed dressers until I finally found a set and bought them. I have drawers built into my closest, but they are narrow and down on ground level. You have to open both sets of doors to pull out the drawer. Now I have a six-drawer dresser and it seems like a miracle. I can now see my clothes and everything is once again neat and orderly. I also have end tables, lamps, a coffee table, and a living room rug. All these things make the apartment more comfortable. The last item on my must-have list is a desk with drawers and a chair for the guest bedroom. I'm tired of using the kitchen table as my computer work station. After that I can relax a bit. I still need things on the walls, but I'm going to be rather selective about those choices, especially considering I have a whole storeroom at home filled with artwork.
Of course there are things I miss and that still annoy me, but that isn't anyone's fault. It's just life in another country. I miss American supermarkets where you can buy any ingredient, regardless if it's out-of-season. In Korea you buy only what's available and in season. Of course, this makes for very fresh produce, but nearly impossible if you're cooking a recipe from The Silver Palate. I miss American pharmacies. At CVS if you need Preparation H, or Imodium, or antacids, or jock itch spray or any of the countless embarrassing items our bodies need to remain healthy, you can simply walk down the aisle and pick them off the shelf. In Seoul, all those items are in the back and you must ask the pharmacist for them. Try describing a hemorrhoid to someone who doesn't speak English. You get the picture.
I miss some of my favorite products, like my hair gel, toothpaste, moisturizer. You just can't get some items here. But the things you miss are replaced by things you can't get in the states. It's all about adjusting your expectations, and packing better. Next summer my suitcase is going to be filled with a year's supply of hair gel.
I apologize for the sporadic posting, but I only write when I have things to say. The past couple of weeks have been rather mundane. Next week is Bangkok, and I'm sure I'll have a ton of cultural experiences to write about. As they sing in the musical Chess: "One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster. The bars are temples but the pearls ain't free. You'll find a god in every golden cloister, and if you're lucky then god's a she. I can feel an angel sliding up to me."
Until then...